Hello @viko,
I have a more or less similar install in my flat (Western Europe). The wires leading to each light and switched socket go directly to the electrical panel, so I can switch them from a central point instead of the traditional wall switches.
My biggest mistake: I started with Kincony H32B Pro boxes to control the lights (on-off, no dimming). It turned out that the relays are too small and weak to accept LED lights or low-quality power blocks, such as some cheap laptop power units. More precisely, the inrush current was too high for the relays, and after a few on-off cycles, the relays remained stuck (melted, really).
I had to replace the H32B Pro units with Kincony F32. They use much more powerful and capable relays which can handle way higher inrush currents. I learnt the hard way that a relay that accepts 10A is very much different from one that accepts 16A. I understand the A16s use smaller, 10A relays.
I also use Home Assistant for everything, but I think this is not ideal. Computers are generally speaking much less reliable than basic electricity, and you will have cases when you have to reboot/restore etc. I advise to have switches and lights (for instance) connected to a Kincony box, setup the logic of which switch controls which light in the box, either with KCS or even better ESPHome, and then connect the box to Home Assistant to make it easily automated. The wall switches should not go through Home Assistant.
For rollers, I have wired the motors directly to the Kincony boxes, I use the interlock mechanism in ESPHome. You would also need to wire the wall commands for the rollers into the Kincony boxes.
I have no experience with thermometers, I use cheap Aqara zigbee ones for this. Wired sensors would be better (I need to change batteries every two years), but you will need to plan carefully the location to avoid it being blocked by furniture etc. in the future.
If you add a few diagrams, it will be easier to discuss.
I have a more or less similar install in my flat (Western Europe). The wires leading to each light and switched socket go directly to the electrical panel, so I can switch them from a central point instead of the traditional wall switches.
My biggest mistake: I started with Kincony H32B Pro boxes to control the lights (on-off, no dimming). It turned out that the relays are too small and weak to accept LED lights or low-quality power blocks, such as some cheap laptop power units. More precisely, the inrush current was too high for the relays, and after a few on-off cycles, the relays remained stuck (melted, really).
I had to replace the H32B Pro units with Kincony F32. They use much more powerful and capable relays which can handle way higher inrush currents. I learnt the hard way that a relay that accepts 10A is very much different from one that accepts 16A. I understand the A16s use smaller, 10A relays.
I also use Home Assistant for everything, but I think this is not ideal. Computers are generally speaking much less reliable than basic electricity, and you will have cases when you have to reboot/restore etc. I advise to have switches and lights (for instance) connected to a Kincony box, setup the logic of which switch controls which light in the box, either with KCS or even better ESPHome, and then connect the box to Home Assistant to make it easily automated. The wall switches should not go through Home Assistant.
For rollers, I have wired the motors directly to the Kincony boxes, I use the interlock mechanism in ESPHome. You would also need to wire the wall commands for the rollers into the Kincony boxes.
I have no experience with thermometers, I use cheap Aqara zigbee ones for this. Wired sensors would be better (I need to change batteries every two years), but you will need to plan carefully the location to avoid it being blocked by furniture etc. in the future.
If you add a few diagrams, it will be easier to discuss.