Hello!

I'm building a new apartment and need some help picking up a product from Kincony's lineup:

There are too many similar boards, with subtle differences, so it's a little confusing which to select.
Here's what I'm planning for:

- Automated lights everywhere. I think I can consider 3 light circuits in each room
- IR integration for HVAC split systems (heat pumps)
- Automated curtains (roll-on or some railing system)
- Power measurement over each power phase (no need for individual circuit measurement)
- RF 433 MHz support for future use

About the space itself:
It's a 190 sqm high-rise apartment, with 4 bedrooms (suite) + large living room (with balcony), kitchen, and mudroom
Also:

- I live in Brazil, and power here is usually a 3-phase 220v system.
- Lighting nowadays is LED-based, but all bulbs and fixtures are always AC 220V. I've never shopped for DC lighting (12 or 24V).
- Power outlets are rated for 10A @ 220V. High-power outlets (mud room, kitchen appliances) are 20A @ 220V

Other things I'd like:
- I want to use regular dry-contact wall switches: Specialty or wireless switches are a big no for me.
- I would like to use CAT5 UTP cabling for switches, if possible.
- I would like to use POE for powering as many devices as possible
- I have no interest in TUYA, and I'll use a Home Assistant setup, so the board needs to support ESP Home

Please help, I don't know what  boards to choose.

Hi,
After receiving the KC868-A128, I flashed it with KC868-A128-HA-input-toggle-output.yaml and everything was working. I powered it off and put it aside because I didn’t have time to install it at the target location.
Today I wanted to continue, but only the red LED next to the power supply is on. The LEDs at the Ethernet connector are not flash, and there are no lights on the switch either. I connected a USB cable, but no serial port is detected on either Windows or macOS. What should I do?

regards,
Toper

When flashing with ESPHome, I get the following warnings

Hi,

Are there any example yaml files for coding LoRa and the RS-485 connection for Home Assistant esphome?

Hi,
I'm about to buy my first KC868 module but I have some very basic questions. 

I had a tuya wifi relay board before and that created 13 switches which saturated my wifi network. If I flash esphome on this kc868 board will it create 16 switches on the network or just one device?

I need to have toggle switches able to control the relays and at the same time I want to be able control the switches from homeassistant. So if the toggle switch is on I still want to be able to turn the relay off. 
This means if the toggle switch is at off state and I turn the relay on remotely then changing the manual switch to on will do nothing because the relay is already on.

Thx!

I have started using the MB battery monitor, but I see Current & Power readings are much lower than my Victron SmartShunt.

Kincony Current: 2.7 A
Victron Current : 5 A.

16A version of Kincony MB

I am using the YAML referenced here: https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3975

Is there any tunings?   What is the expected accuracy of 16A MB ?

Attached Files

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Hello,

Could I use a PSU 24VDC to supply power to kc868-a32 rev 1.4?

Thanks in advance

Regards

Nicolouts

Hi,

I am an electrician in Canada that dabbles in smart home equipment and programming.

I wanted to get better power consumption data into my Home Assistant and eventually settled on the N20.
The N20 has two voltage inputs so should be well suited to typical residential services in North America which are usually 120/240V split phase.
That is two hot lines, each 120 volts to neutral/ground but 240V between each other.

After getting the yaml provided on this forum installed I discovered a shortcoming when used in this fashion.

The N20 uses two BL0910 chips which each have 10 current transformer inputs and 1 voltage sensing input (1 BL0910 on the N10 and 3 on the N30 which would be good for 3-phase monitoring).
Each  BL0910  chip does calculations internally to provide watts and kWh but those calculations are done based on the single voltage input on each chip.

This is not a problem when one uses two current transformers, one for each hot line, but for a purely 240V load only a single current transformer is required.
Except the BL0910 chip calculates the watts based only on that single voltage input, 120V rather than 240V.

This yaml makes a few changes to tailor the firmware for typical USA/Canadian 120/240V residential services.

#1. Sensors have been renamed to aid readability.
bl0910_1_current_1 becomes CT1_1_Current
bl0910_1_power_1 becomes CT1_1_Power (or CT1_1_Power_HV when the power is based on a higher 240V circuit)
bl0910_2_power_1 becomes CT2_1_Power

The labelling on the outside of the unit lists CT1 to 11 and CT11-20 but I believe retaining the separation between BL0910 chip #1 and chip #2 is still important conceptually so went with CT1 1-10 and CT2 1-10.

#2 The renaming results in reordering of the entities in Home Assistant. Originally it would list currents 1-10, then watts 1-10, etc. Now all 3 sensors for each input is grouped and easily visible at a glance rather than scrolling 10 entries down.

#3 Reconfigured to use wifi rather than ethernet. Deleted unnecessary(?) text sensors for unused IP addresses.

#4 The OLED screen. Originally it only displayed the unit's IP address. 
Now it shows the IP address, Line 1 & 2 voltages, Line-to-line voltage, L1 watts and L2 watts.
For Line 1 & 2 watts I have CTs on my main panel feeder to get the whole house consumption. If you do not have CTs this could be changed to a specific load or commented out.

#5 This is one of the important ones. A sensor has been added that adds together voltage 1 and voltage 2 to get the Line-to-Line voltage. This is trivial to do with a helper in Home Assistant but having a dedicated sensor is nice and is also vital for the next change.

#6 I've added commented-out sections for each current sensor input that multiply the current by the Line-to-Line voltage for 240V loads using single current transformers.
Simply delete or comment out the original sensor entry for 120V loads and uncomment the 240V entry.
The new entities add "HV" to their name to indicate the watts are derived from 240V rather than 120V.

#7 At this time I have not looked into a way to fix the kWh sensors to accommodate 240V loads but I suspect it should be possible.
In the meantime I've added comments indicating the kWh sensors should be commented out if a single CT is used for a 240V load.
kWh tracking is also trivial in Home Assistant so I'm not in a hurry to figure this one out.

If anyone has feedback or modifications please share here.
Please give credit if my modified yaml is shared elsewhere. Thank you

Attached Files

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  KinCony North America 120-240V split phase.txt (Size: 35.66 KB / Downloads: 218)

Hi, 

I have KC868-H16B relay.
What seems to happen is that Mqtt client stops listening to subscriptions after a while. 
I have ports 1-6 for lights, and port 16 for heating. 
Randomly, port 16 stops responding to mqtt state changes. 
Looking at the explorer, the set value is changed to 1 but state is not changed accordingly. This only affects port 16. ports 1-6 are still working. 
If I power cycle the relay, it's back to normal again. 
Version I'm running is H16B_V4.35. 
Any ideas? 


Thanks, 

Heikki

SetUp 

Board Model: T64M
Software Version: v3.18.0

DI1 = push button
DO1 = control lamp
DO2 = Pulse Start
DO3 = Pulse Stop
 
Output
Output DO2 Delay 0.5s
Output DO3 Delay 0.5s
 
IFTTT
1) If -> DI1 Rising Edge, and, DO1 OFF -> Then -> Toggle DO2 , DO1 ON
2) If _> DI1 Rising Edge, and, DO1 ON -> Then -> Toggle DO3, DO1 OFF

When I test the code via IFTTT by clicking "run," it works.
However, when I use my pushbutton DI1, output DO1 turns on and I get a pulse from DO2. 
This happens repeatedly, no matter how many times I press the button.
The output doesn't turn off when I press the button a second time.
It seems like the "If DO1 on" nor the "If DO1 off" is working.