Hey there, 

First: I find the Kinkony products very compelling and find it amazing what product lines you built always following the open approach of open hardware with schematics and software support for ESPHome!

I want to use several actors in my future house to control 230V and Roller/Shutters with ESPHome, but there are some drawbacks preventing me. I'd like to share my thoughts - maybe for your future products

- The actors should be installed in a "standard german electrical cabinet" following the standard "DIN 43880:1988-12".
- This standard defines division units (DU) of 17.5mm for DIN-rail devices. The standard cabinet provides a width of 12 DU (12x 17.5 = 210mm) per slot.
- All common smart home devices in Germany follow these standards, e.g., HomeMaticIP Wired, Loxone and KNX. These units are available in 2, 4, 6 or 12 division units to maximize the space utilization in cabinets and provide around 1 relay per DU.
- For my Smart Home, I need a bunch of 230V actors supporting 10A (roller shutter) and 16A relays (switchable sockets / lights) and don't have much space left in the existing cabinets, so integration density is crucial.


- Your product line:
-- I find the F16 very compelling, but it exceeds the maximum width of my cabinet slots (262mm F16 vs. 210mm (12DU) cabinet). Costs are ~15 USD/relay.
-- The F8 on the other hand would fit with its 195mm, but only provides a overall poor integration density of 8 relays / 12 DU and has a higher cost per relay (~20 USD/relay).
-- KC868-A8v3 comes with 8x 10A relays, width: 148mm(9 DU), integration density: 8 relays/9DU;  costs: 8USD/relay
   Q: Can't find the schematics for the v3 version. Is there a single PCB variant supporting V12 and V24 power supply (as opposed to the v1 versions where the relays are either 12V or 24V)


--> My conclusion: At the current state none of the products really match by requirements, so I want to share some thoughts:


Summing up my requirements for the ideal cabinet 230V actor:
- 24V power supply
- Device width following 6 or 12 DU DIN Rail widths
- LAN connection (POE would be nice, but 24V power is also available in the cabinet)
- 230V outputs: 10 / 16 A relays  (edit: was 23V, intended: 230V)
- Inputs: Every relay should have one corresponding opto-coupled dry contact input (24-capable)
- Stand-only functionality: Should work without active connection to the home controller / home assistant.
- High integration density: 1 Relay per 1 DU (17.5mm) as provided by competitors (Loxone, Homematic, KNX)
- NO need for additional interfaces (CAN, Tuya, SDCard, analogue in, etc.).
- costs should not exceed 15USD/ relay
- Housing with proper cover is a must. LEDs should indicate active relays. A display does not matter. An additional RGB-LED showing a general device health-status (power okay, ESPHome connected/disconnected) should be enough. 


Additional (unstructured) feedback:
- I like the idea of having input overrides as the switches in the F-series. But for using them as a roller-shutter actor this can lead to severe problems (powering both up -and down of the roller-shutter at once). While accessing the device by software there will be an mutual lock of Up/Down ESPHome (already provided in their sources).
Could you consider replacing the "permanent switches" with buttons and program a software-behaviour like "hold them for momentary-override" or "double click for permanent on/off"?
- The connectors used in your products are rather large. Could you consider using connectors with a smaller footprints? The reduced size could be used for additional relays on this side of the board (especially good for 12 DU units (6 DU for inputs/power and 6 DU for 4 additional relays).
- Did you know that the company Waveshare (e.g., Modbus POE Eth Relay ©) has a nice concept of DIN-rail devices with 2xEthernet/RJ45 POE-in and POE-out? This allows for device chaining, which is super cool for tight cabinet spaces
- Product selector:
-- Please make separate a selection for 12V and 24V.
-- Filter by size / length

My background: Electrical Engineer (PCB design / FPGA). Designed several Atmega 328-based devices for my cabinet and want to upgrade for better HomeAssitant integration. I have many more ideas and would be happy to discuss, if you are interested


Best Regards, sorry for the long post and keep up your good work!

Martin

Hello KinCony,

I have a question about the physical switch exists on the device itself, I need to be able to change their behavior to toggle switch instead of normal switch. I mean to toggle the relay state (on -> off, or off -> on) once it is flipped.

btw, thank your for such awesome devices.

Hello,
My KC-868 A8v3 is unable to learn the RF for my A-OK roller blinds.  Is there any special way to setup the RF in KC868 for roller blinds?

The blinds work ok with the factory supplied remote controller. 
The KC868 A8v3 can learn the RF for my garage controller ok.

Appreciate any help you can give.

Regards

Hi,
I have a question about power supply for T128.
I'm using 24 V relays (Finder 40.52) connected to the Digital Outputs.
I am considering two power options:

1. Two power supplies (this version works fine since 2 days):
   
   • 12 V for the Kincony board (VCC),
     
   • 24 V only for the outputs,
     
   • common ground (GND) for both power supplies.
     
2. One 24 V power supply:
   
   • 24 V connected to VCC and to LO.
     

• Is it safe to connect the grounds (GND) of the 12 V and 24 V power supplies together?
  
• Does the manufacturer recommend using a common ground in this case?
  
• From thermal and reliability point of view, is it better to power everything with 24 V, or use 12 V for VCC and 24 V only for outputs?
  

Hello,

I currently use AD2USB to communicate with my Honeywell Vista alarm system. Together with ser2sock (serial to socket), in bash/Linux, I use:

if exec 3</dev/tcp/localhost/444555 ; then
  cat <&3 | while read -t12 msg ; do
        # Print last keypad/console message.
        # Example: ****DISARMED****  Ready to Arm
        echo "$msg"
        sleep 1
  done
fi

There are also functions to send commands to the alarm as if it were typed on the keypad.

How does one send/receive to/from the TA ESP32-S3 via command line/bash scripts?

Thanks

Hi,
I have an older version of the Kincony KC868-A16 board (green). I install KCS version 2.2.17 or 2.2.18 on it. I can login in (www), and set my parameters. Then I add the prepared board to Home Assistant via ESP32. I add a new device, the ESP32, and a yaml file is generated. I copy its contents to Notepad. Then I clear the yaml file and paste the code from the ESP32 for HA website into the board. I replace the key entries with the one from Notepad. OTA, Wi-Fi. The code saves without any errors. I install it via USB. Reboot DC. Plugin ethernet cable. Everything is fine. Home Assistant sees the board and I can control relays, etc. And here's the problem description. But I can't access the board via a browser; it doesn't report its IP address. The board search tool doesn't see it either. But the I/O support in HA works. What am I doing wrong?

New unit!
Installed KCS
(Loaded .bin-file via USB, looks loading OK)
Search withe IPScanner for the unit, dont find it!
No LEDs is flashing at all on the net-cable
Try to reset >10sek with Dowload-button and/or Reset-button, nothing changes!
Any other way to hardware-reset
Any idea?

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Where can I find the KinCony_SCAN_Device.zip  file ? The links give me a 404 not find

bonjour, nouveau sur le forum et nouveau possesseur d'une carte KC868-A16 (V1.6)
J'ai plusieurs questions, 
- je cherche à l'aide de la carte KC868-A16 v1.6 à communiquer en MODBUS TCP avec un automate Crouzet EM4, déjà est ce que cela est possible avec la carte V1.6 ?
je voudrais recuperer des valeurs de capteurs de température sur la carte pour les utiliser dans le programme du EM4.
- Par ou commencer avec cette carte ? quelle firme installer de base et ensuite quelle fichier bin me conseillez vous ?
- Précision mon automate Crouzet EM4 et connecter au reseau Ethenet de mon installation qui comporte et communique également avec
une installation home assistant.
Par avance merci de votre aide

I am using a KC868-A8 board.
I am using it in a setup where a standard wall light switch provides a contact signal to KC868-A8 Input-1, and this triggers Relay 1 to operate.
Sometimes the relay turns off late, or the light does not turn on when I switch the wall switch ON, or it turns on late.
I suspect this might be due to contact bounce (chattering).
Is there any solution for this?
Can this be resolved within the KC868 UI through a firmware update?
Using ESPHome to add an input delay feels burdensome for me.
I am not good at coding.
Controlling it through the UI is more convenient and preferable for me.

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